One day we ventured by boat from Positano the island of Capri, a truly exquisite place (although we opted to bypass the tourist-infested center swelled with designer shops and their “see and be seen” crowds). Instead, we hiked north though quiet, flowered paths up into the cliffs, stopping more than once at local cafes showered in pink bougainvillea blooms, to cool down with a few lemon granitas and mandarin gelatos. Soon after, we stumbled upon hidden coves that quite literally made my jaw drop . . .